BMW 760i Repairs
1. Driver side passenger door window shade
One of the passenger door window shades is out of its tracks.
The door card is held on with 3 screws and some plastic tabs. It took a good pull to break it away and appears to be the first time it's been removed. Everything looks brand new!
The left side of the shade has a flat piece with a retaining tab that fits into the left track. You must go in at an angle because of this tab. The right side has just a metal pin that fits into a corresponding hole in the right track.
The problem was simply that the top of the retractable shade had somehow separated from the sliding tracks.
I used a 12V DC power supply to check each of the shades (just hook up to the motors, switch polarity to open/close). There is a separate motor for each shade. Everything inside this door looks brand new. Hope I never have to replace a window regulator in this door as there looks to be a lot of stuff to remove!
While I was working on this I also repaired the V12 plastic logo on the door sill, the rubber edging was peeling away so I glued it back with black silicone.
With the slides adjusted to about midway up the window I was able to re-install the shade in the tracks and it works perfectly again! The left side goes in first at an angle then you have to bend the top piece just far enough to engage the right side.
Sharp eyes may notice a little damage to the plastic cover on the left. I'd replace it but a new replacement is about $50 (it is just a 50c piece of plastic)! I'll keep an eye out for a used one.
2. Parking Brake
The parking brake actuator is located in the rear of the trunk under a plastic cover. It is held in place with 3 x M6 bolts.
There is a nylon gear in these that falls apart. I don't have any pictures as the previous owner removed it and did not bother to repair!
I purchased this all metal gear on Ebay for about $20.
Here it is ready to go back in the car. Installing the new gear is very straight forward.
With the assy configured as below the brake cables can be inserted and nipples correctly located. I then removed the cover form the motor and turned it manually to take up the slack in the cables. You can then install the retaining clips and limit stop. It's a straightforward job.
3. Passenger side rear air shock
The passenger side rear air shock was bleeding down after a few hours. Removal is fairly straight forward.
To get tot the top of the shock you have to remove the trunk side panel.
The light gray foam piece to the left of the hydraulic trunk lid actuator just pulls out to reveal top of the shock (held in place with 3 x 13mm nuts).
Below is the air shock removed from the car. To the left of the red paint dot is a one way pressure valve that the air line connects to. I removed this one-way valve with a set of round vice grips; it is loctited in place and a small 'O' ring ensures a tight seal. With this valve removed I injected about 3 oz of Slime tire sealant, then lightly re-installed the valve, pressurized the shock and moved it around to circulate the sealant top and bottom. I have no idea where the leak is but understand it is most often on the bottom.
I tried dunking this shock in a 5 gal bucket of water but I could not see any bubbles. I was only able to submerge half of it and it really needs to be under load to force the air out. I did confirm the valve was sealing and the shock had no pressure when I removed it so I'm confident it is the problem.
To install (and remove) the shock it needs to be depressurized (unless you want to undo the control arms). To do this I removed the valve and tied some rope around the shock to hold it compressed. Once situated back in the car the rope was released and the valve re-installed. I did disconnect the sway bar link to make room to guide the shock in and out.
The wire coming out the top of the shock is for EDC.
For any doubters, I ensured there was no slime in the valve and since the Slime settles in the bottom of the shock there is no chance of it getting back into the air pump and lines.
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