BMW 760i Repairs
Left passenger window shade (jammed)
Parking brake actuator (broken plastic gear)
Right rear air shock (leaking)
Steering wheel tilt (jammed)
Steering wheel (leather restoration)
DSC (ABS) repair (had a 5EE4 error)
Broken gear in front seat thigh support extensions (x2)
Engine cover (broken mounting studs)
IPOD repair (car is wired for an IPOD in place of CD changer)
Baked on brake dust removal
1. Driver side passenger door window shade
One of the passenger door window shades is out of its tracks.
The door card is held on with 3 screws and some plastic tabs. It took a good pull to break it away and appears to be the first time it's been removed. Everything looks brand new behind it!
The left side of the shade has a flat piece with a retaining tab that fits into the left track. You must go in at an angle because of this tab. The right side has just a metal pin that fits into a corresponding hole in the right track.
The problem was simply that the top of the retractable shade had somehow separated from the sliding tracks.
I used a 12V DC power supply to check each of the shades (hooked directly to the motors, switch polarity to open/close). There is a separate motor for each shade. Everything inside this door looks brand new. Hope I never have to replace a window regulator as there's a lot of stuff to remove to get to it!
While I was working on this I also repaired the V12 plastic logos on the door sills, the rubber edging was peeling away on 3 of them so I glued it back with black silicone.
With the slides adjusted to about midway up the window I was able to re-install the shade in the tracks and it works perfectly again! The left side goes in first at an angle then you have to bend the top piece just far enough to engage the right side.
There is a little damage to the plastic cover on the left. I'd replace it but the part costs $50 (it's a 50c piece of plastic)! I'll keep an eye out for a used one.
2. Parking Brake
The parking brake actuator is located in the rear of the trunk under a plastic cover and held in place with 3 x M6 bolts.
There is a nylon gear in these that falls apart. I don't have any pictures as the previous owner had removed it without bothering to repair!
I purchased this all metal gear on Ebay for about $20.
Here it is ready to go back in the car.
With the assy configured as below the brake cables can be inserted and nipples correctly located. I then removed the cover from the motor and turned it manually to take up the slack in the cables. You can then install the retaining clips and limit stop. It's a straightforward job.
3. Passenger side rear air shock
The passenger side rear air shock was bleeding down within a few hours of shutting down the car. Removal is fairly straight forward....
To get tot the top of the shock you have to remove the trunk side panel.
The light gray foam piece to the left of the hydraulic trunk lid actuator just pulls out to reveal the top of the shock which is held in place with 3 x 13mm nuts.
Below is the air shock removed from the car. To the left of the red paint dot is a one way pressure valve that the air line attaches to. I removed this one-way valve with a set of round vice grips; it is loctited in place and has a small 'O' ring in it to ensure a tight seal. With this valve removed I injected about 3 oz of Slime tire sealant into the shock, then lightly re-installed the valve, pressurized the shock with an air hose and moved it around to circulate the sealant within. I have no idea where the leak is but understand most often it is on the bottom (where the sealant will settle).
I tried dunking it in a 5 gal bucket of water to locate the leak but I could not see any bubbles. I was only able to submerge half of it and it really needs to be under load to force the air out. I did confirm the valve was sealing and the shock had no pressure when I removed it so I'm confident it is the problem.
To install (and remove) the shock it needs to be depressurized (unless you want to undo the control arms). To do this I removed the valve and tied some rope around the shock to hold it compressed. Once situated back in the car the rope was released and the valve re-installed. I did have to disconnect the sway bar link to make room to guide the shock in and out.
The wire coming out the top of the shock is for EDC (adjustable damping).
I ensured that there was no slime in the valve and since the Slime will settle in the bottom of the shock I see no chance for it getting back into the air pump and lines.
4. Steering wheel tilt
This is another common problem with the E65. The lead screw actuator that adjust the steering wheel tilt binds at its end stop. All that is needed is to whack it gently with a screw driver and hammer so as to cause it to rotate counter clockwise. In the pic below you can see the end of the lead screw and a small nick where I hit it. Once it freed up I applied some lithium grease and it is good as new again now. You only need to remove the lower steering column cover to gain access.
5. Steering wheel renovation
The steering wheel leather had a milky deposit on it which is most likely residue from a protectant. As I've done with all my cars, I cleaned the steering wheel leather with a Mr Clean magic eraser and it looks like new again now! Magic eraser works great for removing grime from leather. I soaked it in Lexol leather cleaner and wiped off the residue with a damp cloth. Water works just as well. After this I applied Lexol leather conditioner.
6. DSC (ABS) Repair
The DSC unit was showing a 5EE4 error; this is a common fault associated with the pre-charge pump FET drivers. I was going to attempt to fix it myself but there is a local shop that repairs these for $95 so I elected to have them do it.
Removal is very straightforward... I removed the front airbox and was then able to move the coolant expansion tank to the side and gain access.
With things out of the way it was easy to see the valve cover gaskets are leaking quite badly...
Cleaned and ready to ship out for repair.
It came back like this...
After re-fitting the repaired module I started the car and warning light was still lit! But after shutting down the car and re-starting it the warning light cleared and dash is now clear of warnings!
7. Front seat (x2) thigh extension
The thigh support on both front seats is inop. This is a very common problem on BMW's... another cheap plastic gear that falls apart.
The front cushion is held on with 2 screws and there are 2 connectors (heat and ventilation).
Then pop out this trim peice, adjust the seat to its highest position, loosen screws and drop the mechanism out the bottom. Note that the rails must be fully extended or you won't be able to drop the mechanism out.
Here the mechanism removed...
And inside the gear box is the broken nylon gear.
I purchased a pair of metal gears on Ebay for about $13 ea but they were poorly made and did not fit correctly... causing the gears to bind. I then ordered a pair of replacement Nylon gears which I pressed on to the original worm shaft.
8. Front engine cover mounting studs
The front engine cover is retained by 4 studs that press into rubber grommets on the engine assy. With no lube on these they are very difficult to separate and 3 of the 4 mounting studs had broken off (stuck in the grommets). A small dab of high temp silicone grease on these will ensure they can be easily separated.
Although glue may hold these, I have found the best method of repair is to weld them using ABS plastic and a soldering iron. I used plastic from an old engine compartment cover to make the repair. It looks a little messy but is very strong and of course this is out of sight.
9. IPOD repair
The original CD changer has been removed and the car is wired to use an IPOD (in the glove box). After rummaging around the house I found a couple of old IPOD's. One still worked but it needed a new battery which I purchased on Ebay. It now works perfectly!
10. Baked on brake dust removal
Both front wheels (and the spare in the trunk) looked a bit unsightly with baked on brake dust that was impossible to remove with off the shelf wheel cleaner (I tried a few different types).
After an online search I decided to try acid ...
I purchased Muriatic acid from Lowe's hardware store. With the wheel removed from the car and standing upright, I applied the acid full strength with a tooth brush wear gloves because it burns if you splash on your skin). I worked around the wheel doing just a few areas at a time, rotating the wheel as I progressed. It took a few minutes to work; I scrubbed and applied fresh acid with a toothbrush. After each area cleaned up, I sponged it down with lots of water, rotated the wheel and applied fresh acid. Once finished, I gave the wheels a thorough cleaning and applied some car wax. It took well over an hour to do each wheel but the results came out great!
It did not harm the wheel finish at all! And as you can see, removed all of the baked on brake dust.
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